Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Overland and sea to Morocco

It's a little more expensive (by approx. £150) than the budget flights now flying between the UK to Marrakesh but slowmoves gives reason for the extra expense of a train and boat ride. Imagine watching the way the land changes, mile by mile from urban London, through the green fields of Kent and Northern France. Crossing Paris, then in to the evening and south towards the jagged Pyrenees, direct to Madrid. From Madrid, it's down to Algeciras and Tarifa then the boat across the Gibraltar Straight to Tangier, Africa.

Some change in scenery and some difference between what you leave to what you find. slowmoves offers an intimate means of experiencing this. Of course time does not allow us to make such a journey regularly, which is a reason in itself for treasuring the possibility, as is the more practical consideration of a night's accommodation included in the ride, if leaving as below:

1404: London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord (1726) - Train
1945: Paris Gare d'Austerlitz to Madrid (0910) - Train
1505: Madrid to Algeciras (2033) - Train
2100: Algeciras to Tarifa (2145) - Bush
2300: Tarifa to Tangier (2235: 35 minute crossing and time change) - Boat

Of course, there's the option of spending more time in Paris or Madrid or Algeciras, depending what your scheduled, motivation or interest is.

Thanks to The Man in Seat Sixty-One for helping with the travel information and image. The relevant Seat Sixty-On page also tells you how you can travel on from Tangier, and how the cost of travel drops.

This justification of experience, is at the heart of many slowmoves choices. I for one think it's well worth it.

[George]

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Biarritz to Barcelona cycle

There's been a bit of talk about this, so here begins the action. The start of planning a 280 mile cycle trip across the head of the Iberian Peninsula. Leaving a sun rise on the Atlantic, to finish in the sun set over the Mediterranean.

The outline is depart Biarritz early on Sunday 24 May, cycling through to arrive Barcelona late afternoon of Friday 29 May. This is UK schools half term but one of the benefits of slowmoves is it taking you to places that not everyone else goes to. Time and space. Arriving the Friday would leave a bit of contingency but also the hope of a couple of nights to relax in Barcelona before back to the UK on Sunday 31 May.

Looking at other people's experiences shows few who have done the ride for less than £76,000 for charity, which suggests the weight of the undertaking. Others have had a go at 12 peaks in 100 hours but only with a big cycling background and vehicle support. As regular cyclers we are more likely to be aiming for a standard eight-ten day cross, which we do not have time for.

The opening proposal is, inside the dates ID'd above, cycle on the North side of the Pyrenees, stopping at to be identified guest houses night to night. Carrying anything more than the basics on paniers (essential) would be nil fun so out goes camping. We can cross the Pyrenees as time allows. If making good progress then we could spend a day taking the ups and downs but it maybe too much of this will put us right off. The minimum though is a day over from the North to South side. If everything goes too slow then we could stay North and flat (either side of the mountains are flat lands that we would do well to stay on or close to) and end up on the train line North from Barcelona, which is the route home I propose to book on.

Train travel with bikes to Biarritz can be booked for Friday evening 22 May or Saturday 23 May well in advance with Rail Europe, back from Barcelona similarly. Different routes to and from doesn't really affect the price as Rail Europe don't seem to go for returns. Eurostar to and from London and Paris will be no bother either.

Most of my blogs on this page to date have looked back. This one is very much looking forward so any comments and suggestions from those down to take part in this would be appreciated, or indeed from those who have knowledge or experience of this slowmoves means of crossing from Biarritz to Barcelona.

[George]

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Taking time in the Basque Country

Applying slowmoves re-adjusts how we look at a journey. If we get there quick, we are more likely to want things quick while we are there. At least from my experience. On short holidays before slowmoves, I would be less likely to be spontaneous and considered any travel while away with reluctance. However on a trip to San Sebastian earlier this month, a two hour bus ride along the coast to Bilbao seemed like a short amount of time, considering it would open up two days in a place of intrigue, to which I had not been before. I had enjoyed the trains to San Seb from Paris, so a couple of hours more travel was no chore, and right to do given rain was falling on and on. Beside the Bay of Biscay during November!

The Guggenheim was stunning. The food market - Mercado de La Ribera - was another place certainly worth seeing. A great cafe inside it to sit amongst the stalls, the river to one side and Inglesia de San Anton, one of Bilbao's oldest churches, to another. The market also stands at the start of the 'seven streets' of original Bilbao, and not far from Plaza Nueva. Surrounded by old, old facades, Plaza Nueva offered us a couple of gems. To stay, check out the cheap and basic but full of character, Pension Manea. Somewhere-like we stumbled with heavy bags to find. Top floor and views on to red roofs and street below, but made by the owner who welcomed us like lost children! And on the corner of the Plaza was the fantastic Cafe Bar Bilbao. From it's tiles to the food, the Cafe holds an authenticity as real as the Basque people that frequent it.

It takes time to build places with as much character, it's certainly worth taking the time to find them.

[George]

Sunday, November 2, 2008

The Pilgrimage

I've just finished reading one of Paulo Coelho's first books 'The Pilgrimage', published in 1986. It is a very personal account of his own spiritual journey of walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela (also known as The St James Way) in Spain, a famous historical pilgrimage that is still popular today.


Accompanied by his guide Petrus, Coelho walks the whole length of the road over a period of several weeks, only pausing to sleep in the various villages dotted along the route. As part of the journey, Coelho has to do a number of meditation exercises (that are defined in each chapter) and is faced with many physical and mental challenges. I liked the slow pace of the book and it got me thinking how liberating it would be to be a pilgrim and walk for weeks on end.

Here are a couple of my favourite quotes:

"Time isn't something that always proceeds at the same pace. It is we who determine how quickly time passes."

"Changing the way you do routine things allows a new person to grow inside you."

The camino de Santiago de Compostella has existed for over 1000 years and was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages in medieval times. Tradition has it that the remains of the apostle St James the Great are buried in Santiago. You can start the journey from anywhere in Europe, but the most common route is the Camino Frances which starts in St Jean Pied de Port and finishes in Santiago de Compostela about 780Km later, after traveling along the north of Spain.

Increasingly, the route is attracting a modern day 'pilgrim' that embarks on the road for the joys of slow travel and the challenge of weeks of walking in a foreign country. Pilgrims can buy a pilgrim's passport to get stamped in each town they visit and which allows them to stay in special pilgrim hostels along the way. Once (if) they reach Santiago, they can get a certificate to say they've accomplished the pilgrimage.
There's something really appealing to walking towards a common goal and it may just be something I'll attempt in my lifetime.
Anouk

Friday, October 3, 2008

Cyclosport events


Worth checking Cyclosport out if you are in to cycling, and not fainthearted.

It's all about the bike.

Within the site (along with places for reviews, photos, training tips and a lot more) Cyclosport list events taking place all around the world, search able first by continent, then country. You can find one close to you, or one that provides you with the destination to enjoy the journey to. Perhaps something to think about for next year but even a look at the beginning of October for the UK alone shows a month including tour of the Pennines and another of the Peak District.

It's worth reiterating the not fainthearted bit, but also making clear you can use the site how you wish. If you prefer to be independent and going at your own pace - rather than the peleton's - you can still be inspired by the rides on the website, they each come with summaries, 'getting there' information, maps, downloads and useful links.

Thanks to Rory who recommended the site following his completing of Atlantic to Mediterranean over Pyrenees peaks, in 100 hours this summer. The harder end of a journey written about earlier this year on slowmoves...

[George]

Picture from www.cyclosport.com

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Pedalling around cities with the best public bike schemes













Montreal, Barcelona, Paris - apart from being incredible cities, they also all have successful public bike schemes. Have you ever come across the mini parking lots of identical 'velib' bikes in Paris? Or people riding around in red 'Bicing' bikes in Barcelona? You can pick up bikes at a number of stations - 20,000 bikes at 1,450 stations in the case of Paris - and just pay a small fee to ride around the city. In Barcelona, the first 30 mins are even free. They encourage short trips, for getting from a to b, as an alternative to the car, bus or metro.

But it's not just practical - it's also hugely enjoyable discovering these gorgeous cities on wheels. Last year, on a trip to Paris, the velib bikes were our primary mode of transport. It made us feel like real locals and allowed us to discover hidden areas and streets we wouldn't of otherwise ventured to.















Montreal has just launched their own scheme called Bixi. It made sense for them as Montreal has twice been named the best cycling city in North America. It is really compact and there are many lakes, mountains and canals you can pedal to within close proximity.

So when will Boris grant his promise for a much-awaited London public bike scheme? Personally, I can't wait...

[Anouk]